Go buy a kitchen scale!
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Volumetric measurements have been and currently are all the rage to American home chefs, bakers, and cooks. From metal nested cup measures, to Pyrex glass measuring cups, to plunger-style cylinders for sticky ingredients, making a recipe that calls for a half cup of sugar and two-thirds cup of olive oil is everyday stuff in American kitchens. No brainers. Easy, obvious, and intuitive, passed down from dozens of generations.
Until you measure flour. Flour is light, fluffy, feathery stuff, and one cup of flour may have a lot more flour in it than the second cup, which could have far less than the third. Cookbook authors recommend the so-called "stir, scoop, sweep" method when measuring flour by volume. That is, take your flour jar and stir up all the flour in it—or better yet, give it a really good shake. Then, scoop the flour with the cup measure. Finally, sweep off the top with a knife or other straight edge.
However, even religious devotion to the "stir, scoop, sweep" method cannot give accuracy from measure to measure. There're just too many variables: localized pockets of denser flour, compression from the cup measure, air pockets, etc. And when making something as finicky as a pie crust, accuracy matters. For pastry, it can mean the difference between light and fluffy or chewy and dense—between success or failure.
So, what's the right way to measure flour? By mass (by weight, if you prefer, recalling that weight differs from planet to planet) of course. Using a kitchen scale, it doesn't matter how much flour you get in your scoop: you can accurately tell at a glance exactly how much you've got and hence can get perfect pastry perennially. Flour, powdered sugar, and other light and fluffy ingredients should always, always be measured with a scale and never with measuring cups.
Sadly, few cookbooks for home chefs list their ingredients by mass/weight. Why? Cookbook publishers usually cite that home cooks don't have scales. That may be the case, but it's high time that home cooks go out and buy some! Even precise digital scales with both imperial and metric readouts are fairly inexpensive. Take a look at what Amazon has in the digital scale department today:
- Soehnle Myra Digital Food Scale, $29.99
- Digital LCD Glass Top Kitchen Scale, $29.95
- Polder 932-00 Pocket Size Digital Scale, $24.88
With more scales in kitchens, we'll finally see more publishers releasing more cookbooks with mass/weight measurements in addition to (or instead of) volume. If you don't have one yet, go get one!
So, what do you do with your existing cookbooks that say "add 1 cup of flour"? Take a look at the chart on this page at Gourmet Sleuth, and you'll see that it's 125 grams. Place your bowl on your scale, turn it on, set it to grams mode (if it doesn't default to grams), and add flour until you get to 125. Foolproof!
(Why use mass by grams instead of weight by ounces? There are about 28 grams in an ounce, so using grams lets you be far more precise.)
Happy cooking and, especially, baking!
Retentionus Maximus
Being a colleague of Mr. Kelly's, I can confirm that he is as anal as they come.
Name withheld to protect the not so innocent.
Well I wouldnt go that far..
Now, now.. Sean has a perfectly logical answer to a problem that comes up with soufle cooking all the time. If you measure flour and other items by mass you actually end up with soufle's that are less likely to crap out on you... [This is an honest comment from having made 20 pie-crusts one night and finding that half of them leaded out because the butter ratio was too high.]
Now of course, we can get into the argument of whether when working out your measurements it is better to use metric or English measurements. The standard English measurement for mass is the slug.. the standard sub-unit is the grain (which does not divide evenly into the slug). Remembering that there are 225218 grains to the slug is a pain. Like all things it is better to use the metric system and use kilograms( and grams for the small units).
Another area that Sean does not cover is that when measuring volume for mixing things, you really need a true temperature controlled room. The density of liquids will change with temperature, and you again can end up with a dud of a dinner. So when converting from a recipe that is using volumes.. it is essential to make sure that you measure the temperatures that you made the recipe at. This way, if the recipe does not work out the first time, you can work at it until you get the correct volume, temperature and masses. [Ambient atmospheric pressure should also be recorded in cases where you may find a pastry non-repeatable.]
Another thing that Sean does not cover is the lack of true temperature measurement in an oven. You need about 8 sensors in the typical oven to get a good idea of how the convection is (not) working. Most oven's come with 1-3 and then use a simple averaging to figure out what the temperature is. The error bar for these units are within +/- 10 degree F. I have found that you might as well use the analog control on a toaster oven if you want to figure out what temperature is optimal for cooking a pastry. A true oven would measure the following:
Relative mass of object.
Air pressure of oven.
Temperature at center, front, back, top, bottom (all being measurements 4 cm from the wall ) with duplicated sensors to look for sensor failures.
Temperature should be measured in Kelvin with 0.5 degree error bars.
A USB or X10 device can then send this all to a simple PC that can graph your various meals from start to end.
Similar devices should also go into your freezer and refrigerator that you use for general cool cooking of objects (gelatins and similar parfes).
It is probably going overboard, but you can also a similar sensing device to measure out how much of your cooking materials you have. This way, you can effectively budget how much flour (and which kinds) you need when. [The program would also cross check multiple vendors to see that your costs are covered correctly. This way money saved can be bought on getting more accurate sensors throughout the house for figuring out where other improvements should occur.]
-sjs
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Why not fill your entire kitchen with Appliance Parts and then you will be sure you did the job right.
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